Dear, Syd and Ryan
I have just started getting into gunpla. Almost finished my first kit MG Ball. But i have a question. After speed watching to episode 117 I was wondering if a fan wanted to visit HLJ while in Japan could we support the store and buy something in person? Also is do you know if their is a Taxi service or bus around Sanoshi…[Read more]
‘sup. there’s a site (pulsarprofx.com) here in the states where you can make custom dry transfers with a laser printer. but having said that, Slater4u said it best-it’s way, way too easy to make a mistake. that’s the main reason (I think) most people use water slides, while they’re wet, you can move them around and place them perfectly.
Well almost done with my first kit but i have one question left. I know you can buy waterslides of stickers but can you also get dry transfer versions of stickers.? I love so far how the dry trans are coming out. Just need to wait for aligator clips then ill top coat.
I don’t think Bandai sells dry transfer decals, as they’re moving away from providing them in their kits due to the fact that they’re not very well liked. They look good, but they’re easy to mess up, WAY to easy.
I suggest that if you cannot spray coat the parts yet, to use a good flat brush, like brand new or the best you have, and brush some…[Read more]
‘sup. there’s a site (pulsarprofx.com) here in the states where you can make custom dry transfers with a laser printer. but having said that, Slater4u said it best-it’s way, way too easy to make a mistake. that’s the main reason (I think) most people use water slides, while they’re wet, you can move them around and place them perfectly.
I recommend you do. Anything less then 800 will leave visible scratches, even when painting on the the area’s with Gundam markers. As the paint in the markers is really thin, they won’t fill up scratches. For a really good result I suggest even using a 1000 grid to get it really smooth.
And I forgot to mention in my last reply, for decals, water…[Read more]
Well after cutting it from the runner, use your cutters to clip off the excess gate. From there you can use a file. always file in one direction, never back and forth, and try to keep the file straight and flat. A few passes should be enough to get the gate down and even with the rest of the part without scraping the rest of the part. from there…[Read more]
As for cleaning the nubs, Slater4u covered this excellent. He tells it how it is. I only suggest finishing sanding with a 1000 grid and use a 800 grid before that and after the 600 grid, since you’re not planning on painting and use Gundam Markers to get rid of the discoloration. A 600 grid still leaves scratch marks.
Also get the 800 and 1000 in…[Read more]
I recommend you do. Anything less then 800 will leave visible scratches, even when painting on the the area’s with Gundam markers. As the paint in the markers is really thin, they won’t fill up scratches. For a really good result I suggest even using a 1000 grid to get it really smooth.
And I forgot to mention in my last reply, for decals, water…[Read more]
One of the simplest recommendations that even the manual gives is to get a gundam marker and fill in the panel lines. It really changes a model. Black is always a good choice, grey might be better on white suits, up to personal preference.
As well as that, it’d be nice if you can get your hands on some matt/flat varnish (top coat) to apply a…[Read more]
It won’t be a problem. But as the description says, use fine coats. I thought the markers where alcohol based, but my Japanese is a little off, can’t read the label. LOL. But I could be mistaken tough.
But anyways, it give you no trouble whatsoever
I will soon be doing my first model and was wondering if anybody could tell me if I’m doing it in the right order? Is it assembly > stickers > panel lines > then a flat topcoat. I’ve heard and seen different things about topcoat ruining stickers/ panel lines is this true?
It is one of the orders you could use. Putting a flat coat on top of the panel lines is possible, but not if you plan to use Gundam Markers and a lacquer based clear coat on top of that. The water based ink from the Gundam markers will be dissolved and start to run. Had this problem once in the past. Made a big mess of the piece. Using a acrylic…[Read more]
What he’s referring to, is that some clear coats, namely lacquer and some enamels, will ruin the sticker. Enamel clear coats can cause the ink on the sticker to liquefy, and Lacquer clear coats can actually dissolve the sticker.
It won’t be a problem. But as the description says, use fine coats. I thought the markers where alcohol based, but my Japanese is a little off, can’t read the label. LOL. But I could be mistaken tough.
But anyways, it give you no trouble whatsoever
I think (in my own opinion) for the whole process (not painted)
cleaning numb marks>snap fit>clear coat or gloss coat(optional)>panel line>clear coat>decals/stickers>clear coat>final coating if you want shine effect used gloss or clear, but if you like matt effect used flat coats. Gradually apply 2 to 3 thin coats.
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