Slater4u

In all fairness, We have yet to see the end result of Syd’s Sinanju stein/Quebely kitbash. So maybe Todd deserves some breathing room about his balls.

Syd,

When are you gonna show us some progress on your Stein/Qubeley build?

Possible RE/100 Queen Mansa? let happen Bandai, let it happen.

The RE/100 Efreet makes me sad because it’s another RE kit that has those crappy HG hands. They gave the Nightingale the emotion manipulator hands(which they aren’t using enough of in MG kits), so why not the other REs? Make it happen Bandai, right meow!

When it comes to Zoids, it’s all about the Shadowfox master race.

Hey Syd and Ryan

You’ve seen the fan theory that Luke is the bad guy in the new star wars(which I think wasn’t a very well thought out theory), but have you seen the super detailed theory that Jar Jar bink’s isn’t the bumbling idiot we all thought he was, and that he was actually a powerful force user, and possibly the true lord of the sith?

if you mean the blue flame effects, it’s something that Bandai makes for use with figures.

I would just go with washing the parts, because in the long run, it’s going to save you money as you’re not having to use as much clear coat on the kit. It’ll take more time to complete the kit, but saving money always equates to more stuff lol.

You really should use actual primer. Clear coat is intended to protect paint, and will not adhere to the bare plastic as well as primer. the only time you will normally be painting on top of clear coat, is when doing panel lines, washes, highlighting, etc. after which you’ll clear coat over that.

However, if you are set on not using primer,…[Read more]

Just a bit of advice. Try not to leave them so close to a lamp(mainly talking about the Sazabi). The heat that comes off of the bulb can warp the plastic over time, and trust me, the lamp shade doesn’t prevent this from happening(sadly enough).

several of the pictures are out of focus, so it makes things a bit hard to see.

It’s a good start for a first time. Always remember, you have nowhere to go but up, so make sure you plan out something even more challenging for your next go, or take some time to practice your painting, part clean up, etc by building some kits without any alterations or kitbashing, and try your hand at making dioramas. There is so much to learn…[Read more]

np, that’s what is great about this place, lots of more experienced modelers around to help the newer guys.

Don’t paint until you have everything. When it comes to kit bashing, you’ll generally have to do some modding to parts to make them work, so it’s better to paint when you know everything will work together.

The most fun about kit bashing, is making everything look more fitting to you. if you like the stock look of the parts, that’s awesome, but…[Read more]

The ball sockets on the try burning are the same as those on the build burning, so you should be fine with the shoulders fitting the transients ball sockets. I have both the transient and build burning kits, so the big problem you’ll encounter is that you will lose part of the transient’s chest when doing this, as it connects to the ball socket,…[Read more]

Do be aware that the arms of the Transient and try burning are rather different. the Tranisent’s arms are a peg and socket type, and the build/try burning are a ball joint type(the ball is art of the shoulder piece of the try burning, and the peg is part of the body on the transient). You’ll have quite a bit of work ahead of you in modifying those…[Read more]